Japanese Whisky: The 2021 Standard, the Great Names and Mizunara

Japanese whisky began with a borrowed idea and became an obsession of its own. For decades, though, the words on the label promised more than the law required, and some bottles sold as Japanese contained imported whisky. In 2021 the Japan Spirits & Liqueurs Makers Association, JSLMA, drew a line. Knowing where it sits is the first step to buying with confidence.

What the 2021 standard says

• Raw materials are limited to malted grains, other cereals and water extracted in Japan; malted grain must always be used.
• Saccharification, fermentation and distillation take place at a distillery in Japan, distilled to below 95% ABV.
• The spirit is matured in wooden casks of no more than 700 litres, in Japan, for at least three years.
• It is bottled in Japan at no less than 40% ABV; plain caramel colouring is allowed.
• The standard took effect on 1 April 2021, with a transition period for existing products until 31 March 2024.
• It is a voluntary industry standard for JSLMA members, not a law, so producers outside the association are not bound by it.

Japan did not copy Scotch. It studied it, then asked what else whisky could be.

Four names to know

• Yamazaki. Suntory's first distillery, founded in 1923 near Kyoto. Often rich and layered, with fruit, spice and, in some expressions, Mizunara notes.
• Hakushu. Suntory's forest distillery in the Southern Japanese Alps, opened in 1973. Fresh, green and herbal, sometimes with a light touch of smoke.
• Yoichi. Nikka's Hokkaido distillery, founded in 1934 by Masataka Taketsuru, known for coal-fired stills and a robust, often peaty, coastal style.
• Hibiki. Suntory's blended whisky, launched in 1989, marrying malt and grain whiskies into a smooth, harmonious style.

Mizunara and the highball

Mizunara, Japanese oak, is porous and difficult to cooper, and Suntory says it turned to it when imported casks were scarce during the Second World War. With long ageing it gives notes of sandalwood, incense and coconut, which is why it is now sought by distillers far beyond Japan. The highball, whisky with chilled soda over plenty of ice, is the other export: light, food-friendly and a gentle way to enjoy a spirit at the table.

• Check for the words Japanese whisky and a Japanese distillery on the label; without them, ask where the whisky was distilled.
• Try a Hakushu or Hibiki as a highball and a Yamazaki or Yoichi neat to feel the contrast.
• Pour small measures and enjoy in moderation; the Japanese art is restraint.