Fragrance Masterclass, Lesson 1: How to Read a Perfume Pyramid

Most men buy a fragrance in thirty seconds: one spray, one sniff, one card at the till. Then, an hour later, they wonder why the scent on their wrist smells nothing like the one they fell for. The answer is in the pyramid. Welcome to the first lesson of the Man Target Fragrance Masterclass.

Step 1: understand the three tiers

• Top notes: the first impression. Light, volatile materials such as citrus, herbs and some spices. They fade first, often within minutes.
• Heart notes: the character of the fragrance. Florals, aromatics and spices that emerge as the top fades and stay for a good part of the wear.
• Base notes: the foundation. Woods, resins, musks and amber-like materials that evaporate slowly and linger the longest.

The pyramid is a teaching tool, not a law. Materials evaporate at different speeds, so a perfume changes continuously rather than in three neat steps. Some modern fragrances are deliberately 'linear', smelling much the same from start to finish. Longevity also varies with skin, climate and concentration, which is why no honest guide can promise you a number of hours.

The first spray is the trailer. The dry-down is the film. Never buy a ticket based on the trailer.

Step 2: smell like a professional

Perfumers screen fragrances on blotters, thin strips of absorbent paper. Spray once, label the strip, wave it gently and smell it held a little below your nose. Revisit it after a few minutes, after an hour and at the end of the day. When a scent passes the paper test, move it to skin, where your chemistry and warmth will change it. To reset your nose, step outside for fresh air or smell the inside of your own forearm. Test no more than three or four fragrances per session: the nose tires quickly.

Your exercise for this lesson

• Choose one fragrance you already own and read its listed notes.
• Spray a blotter and write what you smell at 1 minute, 15 minutes, 1 hour and 4 hours.
• Circle the moment you liked it most: that is the stage you are really buying.
• Repeat on skin, after a patch test on a small area; if irritation appears, stop and see a dermatologist.
• Keep your notes. In Lesson 2 you will use them to choose a signature scent, and in Lesson 3 to apply it well.